2007 SR5 crank no start

[davebala]

I am still fighting this crank no start. Replaced fuel pump and starter, all new vaccum hoses, ignition key immobilizer reprogrammed by locksmith. Any suggestions will be helpful. This vehicle will start most of the time and after a short drive it will not start. I am able to wait 10 - 30 minutes and it starts and runs great.

 

[SoCal8187]

I am still fighting this crank no start. Replaced fuel pump and starter, all new vaccum hoses, ignition key immobilizer reprogrammed by locksmith. Any suggestions will be helpful. This vehicle will start most of the time and after a short drive it will not start. I am able to wait 10 - 30 minutes and it starts and runs great.

Any codes?

 

[davebala]

No codes... very mysterious .. I did forget to mention I removed the charcoal emissions canister from under the spare and it was dry and did not seem that it contained raw fuel... I read that the camshaft positioning sensor can be the issue and experts say to only replace these with OEM brand Toyota or Denso parts.. but I am not sure of this because it starts and runs so well at other times.

 

[Twowong4words]

To accurately diagnose it you'll likely need a scanner with live data. With that you could see the status of the immobilizer(alarm) and see if its getting crank/cam signal.

I've seen a few on the VVTI 2UZs where someone did a timing belt and did not secure the cam sensor wiring on the drivers side and it ended up coming loose and rubbing against the serp. belt. Its the wiring going into the driver side front black plastic cover on the face of the motor, little round rubber plug. Check the wire coming out for wear.

Also the first thing when I encounter a crank, no start is i look under the dash for signs of an aftermarket alarm. Very often previous owners install them but loose the remote and/or forget to tell the next owner and for whatever reasons it just decides to start acting up.

USUALLY if the cam or crank sensor fail it throws a code for cam/crank correlation.

There is also EFI/fuel pump relays in the engine fuse box that can fail. They will close the contacts when cold but once hot they no longer want to energize. See if you can figure out which relay is the EFI or fuel pump relay and possible swap it with a similar relay in the same box.

 

[davebala]

Thank you very much Twowong... that leads me in a good starting place when I go back to my daughters and work with it again... I will repost the results then..

 

[Twowong4words]

Just wanted to add something that came to mind while I was responding to someone else's thread earlier. Its not uncommon that someone does the timing belt on these 2UZ engines and routes the wiring harness on the wrong side of the fan pulley which can sometimes cause the crank sensor wiring harness to rub against the serpentine belt.

You crank sensor is to the left of my finger in this picture. That's the harness going up along side the A/C compression.


Its suppose to go UNDER the fan pulley bracket(bracket removed in picture below.)


Then come out under the black plastic cam gear cover(fan bracket installed, no cam gear cover installed yet) and routes up across the face of the driver side black cam gear cover and along the driver side of the intake manifold. If yours harness is visible on top of the fan bracket, then it was routed wrong. If it is indeed routed wrong, ensure its not making contact with the serpentine belt and with the engine off, just check to see the harness is not under tension/strain as that could cause issues if the crank sensor wires have an open or short.

^ proper routing.

You can actually see the cam sensor to the left of the gold colored cam gear in the picture above but on yours, it will have the black plastic cover over it.